The stock-making process may seem like a laborious affair, but its importance lies in that the finished product infuses so many aspects of cooking.
In addition, you can make a large amount and freeze it in small tubs, to be defrosted and used as needed. My chicken stock takes over six hours to create, but the time spent is reflected in the taste.
In addition to the white stock described last week, stocks are broken down into further categories:
Remouillage
The word translates as ‘rewetting’, which is a good way to remember how remouillage is made. Bones used to prepare a primary stock are reserved after the first stock is strained away. The bones are then covered with water and a secondary stock is prepared. This is used in place of water when preparing primary stocks.
Broth
Broths share many similarities with stocks and are prepared in the same fashion. Meaty bones, or in some cases the entire cut of meat, bird or fish, are simmered in water or remouillage or along with vegetables and other aromatic ingredients.
Fumet or essence
An essence is a highly-flavoured infusion made from a good stock and wild mushrooms, truffle, vegetables, spices and so forth.
Court bouillon
A quick stock often used for cooking of lobster and crawfish, the ingredients of which are aromatic vegetables, herbs, lemons and water.
Brown stock
Brown stocks are the foundation for all brown sauces and one of the most commonly used stocks in the kitchen. They are prepared by first cooking meat bones and meat trimmings along with the miripoix until they are deep brown in colour.
Chicken stock
This is best using boiling fowl.
Ingredients
3 boiling fowl about 1kg each
500g of miripoix (carrot, leek, celery sticks, onion, garlic)
1 small bunch of thyme
1 small bunch of tarragon
1 small bunch of parsley
5 litres of water or remouillage
50g of whole white pepper corns
1 bouquet garni
Method
1. Wash the chickens in running water, place in a pot, cover with water and bring to the boil. Refresh with cold water to remove any impurities.
2. Place the chicken in a fresh pot, add the miripoix with the herbs, pepper corns and bouquet garni.
3. Add the water or remouillage, bring to the boil and turn down the heat and simmer for approximately five-and-a-half hours, skimming the surface frequently to remove impurities.
4. Rest the stock for 20 minutes and strain through a muslin cloth and strainer.
Cool the stock in a bath of cold water, cover and refrigerate. I also do a triple stock – doing the exact same thing three times, each time using the same stock and fresh chickens. It is really superb.
Vegetable stock or nage
I use this stock for vegetarian dishes and for risotto.
Ingredients
200g new season onions
200g leeks
6 celery hearts
4 whole carrots
2 whole fennel bulbs
10 baby fennel
7 radish
20 whole white pepper corns
10 star anise
3 cloves
5g fennel seed
1 small bunch of basil
1 small bunch of tarragon
1 small bunch of flat leaf parsley
1 small bunch of dill
1/2 litre of dry martini
1/2 litre of dry white wine
4 litres of still water
Method
1. Wash and peel all the vegetables.
2. Place in a pot with the rest of the dry ingredients and add the wine, martini and water.
3. Bring to the boil and turn down the heat and simmer slowly for two hours.
4. Cool down, then place the vegetables and stock in a preserving jar and refrigerate.
Kevin Thornton is a Michelin-starred chef and owner of Thornton’s Restaurant on St Stephen’s Green in Dublin. www.thorntonsrestaurant.com