Tomatoes are a true reflection of summer. Believe it or not, there are around 4,500 varieties of tomatoes available in Ireland.
They come under the various headings of beef, plum, vine, cherry, red, green, black and yellow, each of which has an incredible range of shapes and colours.
When the first organic, fresh tomato enters our kitchen each year, we marvel at its slightly sweet, acidic smell. Just picked from the vine, the skin of a good tomato should be smooth and firm with a deep, rich colour. The best way to serve tomatoes is to slice them and sprinkle them with rock salt, chopped, fresh basil leaves and extra virgin olive oil.
When shopping for tomatoes, ask about varieties and origin. To recognise a good tomato, trust your own sense of taste and smell. A good one should be juicy and firm with a balance of acidity and sweetness. Look for quality in supermarkets and farmers’ markets around the country.
Tomatoes are a versatile food, but I love to marry them with just a few other seasonal foods, such as basil and wet garlic. It’s a great dish for lunch or early evening.
For this tomato tartlet, the tomatoes can be cut roughly into quarters for a rustic look. Unlike most other pastries, puff pastry works with both savoury and sweet dishes.
Tomato tartlet with confit of cherry tomato and basil oil
Ingredients, serves 4
250g puff pastry
200g pesto
16 firm plum tomatoes
8 red cherry tomatoes
4 yellow cherry tomatoes
2 shallots
3 cloves of wet garlic
4 basil leaves
50ml basil oil
10ml olive oil
sprinkle of rock salt
Pesto ingredients
30g of pine kernels
140ml of first press virgin olive oil
20g of fresh basil leaves
Sea salt and fresh milled pepper
1 clove of wet garlic
pinch of sugar
Pesto method
Place all the ingredients into the blender for a few minutes. Remove and taste for flavour. Correct the seasoning as required. Remove and place in a clean container. This stage can be done in advance and the pesto kept in the fridge.
Ready-made puff pastry method
1. Preheat the oven to 170 degrees, then roll out the pastry and cut into 10cm rings.
2. Dust a baking tray with flour. Place the cut puff pastry on the tray and prod it with a fork to stop it from rising. Place another baking tray on top of the pastry and put it in the oven for seven minutes.
3. Remove the top tray and return the pastry to the oven for a further two minutes or until it is a light brown colour. Remove and rest.
Tomato concasse method
1. Wash the plum tomatoes and cut an X into the top of each with a sharp knife.
2. Blanch the tomatoes in boiling water for 30 seconds. Refresh them in cold water, then remove the skin, cut in half horizontally and remove the seeds.
3. Cut half the tomatoes into small discs, place them in a little olive oil and set aside.
4. Dice the remaining tomato trimmings, dice the shallots and finely-chop the garlic.
5. Add a little olive oil to a heated pan. Add the diced shallots and sauté for two minutes without colouring. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Add the diced tomato and cook for a further minute, then season.
6. Remove the tomatoes from the pan and drain off the excessive juice.
Confit of tomato method
1. Place the olive oil and a clove of wet garlic in the pot.
2. Pierce the cherry tomatoes with a knife and place them in warm olive oil (40 degrees) for about 30 minutes, then remove and place them on kitchen paper to absorb the excess oil.
3. Dip the four basil leaves in hot water and cook them in hot oil for five seconds until crispy. Remove and place on kitchen paper. Sprinkle with a little sea salt.
Tartlet method
1. Cover the base of the tartlet with the pesto. Sprinkle a little tomato concasse on top.
2. Assemble the tomato discs on top.
3. Place the tart in a hot oven (190 degrees) for five minutes.
4. Remove from the oven and place the tartlet in the centre of the plate. Sprinkle with a little rock salt and place the basil leaf on top. Pour a little basil oil around the tartlet and assemble the cherry tomatoes on the plate.
Kevin Thornton is a Michelin-starred Chef and owner of Thornton’s Restaurant on St Stephen’s Green in Dublin.
