Posts Tagged ‘sabayon’

Delectable Dublin Bay offering

Sunday, September 21st, 2008

Dublin Bay prawns are highly regarded around the world, appearing on the menus of many of the world’s best restaurants. As a commis chef, I shelled boxes and boxes of prawns at a time, often until my hands bled.

When prawns are fresh, it is almost impossible to peel them, because of the membrane attached to the shell. One of the best ways to get a prawn out of its shell without breaking it is to first remove the prawn’s head, and then freeze the prawn for 30 minutes. The shell should come away easily. The centre vein and waste should also be removed.

Prawns freeze well once they are shelled and cleaned. The shells can be used to make a great sauce or consommé.

The following dish went on the menu when my wife Muriel and I opened our first restaurant – the Wine Epergne in Rathmines – 18 years ago. I was trying to develop a new version of prawn cocktail at the time. We still serve it at Thornton’s, and it’s a favourite of many of our customers.

We dry the coral of the scallop and powder it for use as a garnish on the plate, which adds to the overall impact of the dish. We serve the prawns in a shallow soup plate, with the bisque acting as a sauce. However, the bisque can also be served on its own as a soup.

The sabayon, which adds a nice contrast of textures, is an optional extra that lightens the intensity of the bisque flavour.

You can get Dublin Bay prawns inmost good fishmongers, such as Thomas Mulloy’s on Baggot Street, Dublin. Steer clear of the commercially-available frozen prawns.

Sautéed Dublin Bay prawns with prawn bisque and sabayon


Ingredients (serves four)
Prawns
20 Dublin Bay prawns
Sea salt
Freshly-milled black pepper
Olive oil (for frying)
2 lemons
1 bunch of finely chopped chives
Dash of brandy
4 chervil leaves

Ingredients – bisque
20ml of brandy
200ml of dry white wine
1kg of prawn shells
1 litre of fish stock (or vegetable stock)
100g miripoix (1 carrot, 2 celery sticks, 1 Spanish onion, 1 leek, all roughly chopped)
1/2 bulb of garlic
1/2 litre of cream
2 bay leaves
20g of unsalted butter
1 small bunch of thyme
10g of whole white peppercorns
Sea salt
Freshly-ground white mill pepper

Ingredients – sabayon
3 whole free range eggs
20ml of dry martini
30ml of spring water
Sea salt
Milled white pepper

Method

Bisque
1. Heat a little olive oil in a large saucepan and add the prawn shells. Cook shells for ten minutes on a medium heat, stirring them all the time.
2. Add the miripoix, garlic, pep percorns and herbs and continue to mix well. Add a dash of brandy and flambé. Add another two dashes of brandy, allowing them also to flambé. Add the white wine and bring mixture to the boil.
3. Simmer and reduce the liquid by three quarters. Add the fish stock or vegetable stock and bring to the boil again. Reduce heat to simmer and cook for four hours, skimming the surface of any impurities from time to time while it’s cooking.
4. Add the scallop coral powder (optional) and remove from the heat. Pass the mixture through a fine strainer and return to the pot.
5. Add the cream and bring to the boil. Simmer and reduce by three quarters. Taste and season. Add unsalted butter. Remove and blitz sauce in hand blender. It is now ready to serve.

Sabayon
1. Break the eggs into a stainless-steel bowl and mix with a stainless-steel whisk. Season and add the dry martini and still water.
Sit the bowl over a saucepan of boiling water and whisk the mixture over heat until it forms a peak.

Prawns
1. Season the prawns lightly with sea salt and fresh milled white pepper.
2. Drizzle olive oil over the prawns and place them in a hot Teflon frying pan over a high heat for about 300 seconds.
3.Turn prawns and flambé with a dash of brandy. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over on the prawns and sprinkle the chives on top. Make sure the prawns are pink all over.

Remove from heat and turn prawns onto a kitchen towel. To serve, spoon the bisque onto the base of a shallow soup plate.

Place a spoon of sabayon on top and add the prawns. Delicious!

Kevin Thornton is a Michelin-starred chef and owner of Thornton’s Restaurant on St Stephen’s Green in Dublin. www.thorntonsrestaurant.com

Clafoutis with a kick

Sunday, May 11th, 2008


Clafoutis is a French take on baked egg custard and, despite custard’s connection with stodgy school dinners, it is in fact a wonderful dish to round off a meal. The dessert has changed little since its creation in 19th-century France.

The trick to achieving a light clafoutis is to add lots of fruit. My favourite sweet clafoutis is one made with griottines (black cherries marinated in kirsch). Other soft fruits work well, however, such as raspberries, blueberries and apricots. Savoury clafoutis are also sometimes on the menu at Thornton’s. I serve courgette clafoutis with spring lamb and wild garlic sauce.

When I first cooked this clafoutis recipe at home for my parents, my dad remarked that he could get drunk on it. There certainly is a kick from the kirsch, but you can omit the alcohol if you like and the recipe will still work well without it.

Clafoutis can be cooked in a flan dish, but at Thornton’s we serve individual clafoutis, as indicated in this recipe.

It is delicious served with fresh vanilla ice cream as the cold of the ice cream contrasts well with the heat of the dish.

Warm cherry clafoutis with lemon sabayon

Ingredients, serves six
300g pitted, halved black cherries
80ml kirsch
sachet of gelatine
500ml milk
250ml cream
1 vanilla pod (split)
6 eggs
150g granulated sugar
100ml flour
5g melted butter as needed
5g granulated sugar as needed

Sabayon
5 eggs
75g granulated sugar
Juice of 2 lemons

The dish
Caster sugar as needed
Vanilla ice cream

Garnish
Whole black cherries
Sugared vanilla beans

Method: clafoutis
1. Marinade the cherries in the kirsch overnight. Dissolve a sachet of gelatine in water as per instructions on the packet. Set aside for a few minutes.

2. In a large saucepan combine the milk, cream and vanilla pod and bring to the boil.

3. In a small bowl combine the eggs, sugar and flour and whisk to incorporate. Remove the saucepan from the heat and add a quarter of the boiling liquid to the egg mixture, whisking constantly.

Pour the egg mixture into the rest of the cream mixture, turn the heat down low and continue to stir constantly until the mixture thickens to a loose pudding consistency. Discard the vanilla bean. Remove from the heat and cool in a basin of cold water.

4. Preheat the oven to 150C. Arrange six ring moulds 10cm in diameter on a parchment-lined baking sheet, brush the moulds and sheet with melted butter and dust with granulated sugar.

5. Line the bottom of each mould with marinated cherries and pour the cooled cream mixture on top, barely covering the cherries.
Place in the oven to bake for 12 minutes, or until the custard is set and begins to bubble. Remove from the oven and set aside.

Method: sabayon
1. Fill a medium-sized saucepan with 5cm of water and bring to the boil.

2. Combine the eggs, sugar and lemon juice in a separate bowl and whisk to incorporate. Set the bowl into the saucepan, ensuring that the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water.
Reduce the heat and continue to whisk until the sabayon is light and thickened. Remove from the heat and set aside.

To serve
1. Spoon some sabayon on a plate, set a clafoutis in the centre and carefully lift off the ring mould.

2. Sprinkle the entire dish with sugar and caramelise the sabayon and clafoutis with a propane torch if you have one, or quickly, under hot a grill.

3. Place a scoop of ice cream on top of the clafoutis and garnish with black cherries and a vanilla pod.

Kevin Thornton is a Michelin-starred chef and owner of Thornton’s Restaurant on St Stephen’s Green in Dublin. www.thorntonsrestaurant.com